White Linen Pants: A 170-Year-Old Summer Habit

White Linen Pants: A 170-Year-Old Summer Habit

White linen pants are older than most people think, and the V&A holds a pair of white linen twill trousers made in the United States between 1845 and 1853. Pale linen and cotton were popular summer fabrics even then. Here is how to choose white linen pants that feel cool and look pressed in the heat.

A summer habit with a long record

The V&A catalogues a pair of men's white linen twill trousers made in the United States between 1845 and 1853. The museum notes that pale linen and cotton were popular summer fabrics, and that the fly-front closure had become usual by the 1830s. The pair is said to have been worn by William Pierson Johnes, a New York linen merchant, and his name is written in ink inside the watch pocket. White linen pants are a very old answer to a very hot day.

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Weight and weave

Linen comes in weights. A light linen is airy but see-through, and a heavier linen is more opaque and keeps its shape. A linen and cotton or linen and viscose blend wrinkles less. Hold the fabric to the light before you buy. A lining at the front is a good sign, and so is a drawstring or elastic back if you want comfort.

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How to wear them

White linen pants love an oxford shirt, a tank or a knit polo. Picture her on a terrace in a white linen pair with a navy striped top and woven sandals, her sleeves pushed up. Roll the hem if it is a little long. A belt in tan or brown keeps the look tidy. Wrinkles are part of linen, and the best way to wear them is to stop minding.

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Keeping them fresh

Wash linen cold and hang it to dry, then steam it for a soft crease. A little vinegar in the rinse keeps white linen bright. Avoid dark dye transfer by washing separately for the first time.

What I would skip

I would skip very thin linen with no lining and a baggy waist that needs constant pulling up. If you can see your underwear in daylight, the fabric is the wrong weight.