Plum lipstick is the color that makes a plain outfit look like a decision. Chanel launched its dark Vamp lipstick in 1995, and Vogue described a similar black-red shade as early as 1926. This is how to choose your plum, apply it, and wear it without looking like a costume.
Plum Lipstick: The Color With a 1926 Paper Trail
A shade that keeps coming back
Plum lips have a long and slightly dramatic history. A 1926 American Vogue article on fashion colors described a deep garnet red like the inside of a cherry ripened in the sun, a shade that Chanel used often and that was called rouge noir, as reported by Vogue Italia. In 1994 Chanel made a polish in that spirit, and in 1995 it added a Vamp lipstick, according to the Tampa Bay Times. After years of nude lips and glossy balms, plum is the color that looks like a point of view.
Find your plum
Plum lipstick comes in a spectrum, from soft raisin to near black. A berry with brown in it is easiest to wear. If your skin is fair, choose a sheer plum stain to avoid looking washed out. If your skin is deep, a rich aubergine looks stunning. Test it on your lips, not your hand, because the pigment will change. NARS, Tom Ford and Chanel all make plum-toned lipsticks in different finishes. I have not verified every shade at the product page, so check the color name before you buy.
Apply it with a light hand
Plum looks best when the edges are a little soft. Start by blotting the center of your lips with the lipstick, then press your lips together and blend outward with a fingertip. This gives a stained, lived-in look rather than a defined edge. A lip liner in a similar shade will keep the color from feathering, but use it sparingly. For a dramatic evening look, finish with a dab of clear balm in the center. Wipe your teeth with a finger before you leave the house, since dark shades love to travel.
What to wear with it
A plum lip works best with simple clothes. Think a black turtleneck, a gray coat, or a white shirt. Picture her at a restaurant table in a cream knit and a pair of gold earrings, with a plum lip as the only color. Keep the eyes clean with mascara and nothing else. If you wear a red nail, make sure it is in the same family. In our fashion dreams she lifts a glass at the end of the night and the lipstick has not moved.
What I would skip
I would skip matte formulas if you have dry lips, since they emphasize every crease. I would skip pairing plum with a heavy smoky eye, which tips the look into costume. And I would skip very glossy finishes if you want a vampy feel, because the shine softens the mood. If plum feels too heavy, start with a stain and build. You can always add another layer.
