Kick Start

A kick flare is cut slim through the thigh and opens a little at the hem, then stops just above the ankle. It is the one trouser shape that makes almost every shoe look good, from a loafer with socks to a pointed ankle boot.

Jeans first, then trousers for days when denim is too casual.

Dark rinse, true indigo, black, faded mid blue and one coated black pair that looks like leather from a step away.

The tell: the flare should start at the knee, not at the calf. A flare that starts low looks like a bootcut that was hemmed too short.

I would skip anything with heavy fading at the thigh; it fights the clean line.

Black ponte with a pressed seam, a pull on pair, chocolate suede, a navy windowpane, a split hem and a pintucked brown. These go straight from a desk to a dinner.

Try them on with your usual shoe and check the hem. It should land at the ankle bone or just above it.

Pass on ponte so thin it shows pocket bags; a thicker knit holds the flare.

Loafers, heeled ankle boots or a pointed flat. The whole idea is a little gap between hem and shoe, so leave the long boots for skirts.