Fred Leighton, From Georgian Rings to Vintage Brooches: Where to Start

Fred Leighton says it has been a trusted authority in vintage jewelry for more than 40 years. I like that its own story begins with a bohemian clothing shop in Greenwich Village in the 1960s, then follows the business as it focused on vintage jewelry and moved to the Upper East Side in the 1970s.

 

The site spans Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Retro, and contemporary pieces. I arranged five grids by category and included only pieces with a displayed US price, so I can compare them without guessing at a price by request.

Fred Leighton’s pendant and necklace selection moves between zodiac motifs, antique lockets, and chains. I picked eight priced pieces: the 18K White Gold Diamond Pisces Zodiac Pendant, 14K Yellow Gold Aries Zodiac Pendant, Antique Moonstone and Demantoid Bowed Heart Pendant, Antique 18K Yellow Gold Ruby and Diamond Locket, Antique 14K Yellow Gold Demantoid Garnet Textured Heart Pendant Locket, 18K Yellow Gold Filigree Link Chain, 22K Yellow Gold Lady Pendant by Jean Mahie, and Antonia Miletto Sagittarius Zodiac Pendant in Ebony Wood and 18K Yellow Gold.

 

I would start with a motif or locket that feels personal, then check the pendant measurements against a chain I already own. I would skip assuming a pendant includes a necklace unless the product page says so.

These eight priced earrings give me a mix of hoops, beads, and pendant silhouettes. I chose the 18K Yellow Gold White Coral and Diamond Hoop Earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels, 18K Yellow Gold and Diamond Drape Earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier Bead Earrings circa 1950s, Victorian 18K Yellow Gold Hollowform and Pearl Ampule Pendant Earrings, Antique 18K Yellow Gold and Turquoise Pendant Earrings, Antique 18K Tri-color Gold Shell Cameo Pendant Earrings, Antique Old Mine Diamond Foliate Motif Pendant Earrings, and Antique Ruby and Diamond Chandelier Earrings.

 

I would choose the shape first, from a close hoop to a dramatic drop, and look at each page’s measurements before choosing an occasion.

Eight priced rings make a strong case for choosing one clear motif. I picked the Emerald and Diamond Bombé Ring by René Boivin, Black Enamel and Diamond Flexible Coiled Snake Ring, Art Deco Old European Cut Diamond and Emerald Halo Ring, Art Deco Diamond and Sapphire Filigree Ring, Antique Sapphire and Ruby Entwined Snake Ring, Georgian Ruby and Diamond Flaming Double Heart Ring, Antique 18K Yellow Gold and Diamond Double Snake Ring, and Amethyst and Citrine Bombe Cocktail Ring.

 

I would compare the ring size and silhouette before deciding whether I want a stone-forward cocktail ring or a band with movement. I would not choose from the photograph alone when the size is the deciding detail.

The eight priced brooches and pins in this grid range from floral forms to animals and a starry clip. I picked the 14K Yellow Gold Pink Enamel and Diamond Flower Brooch by Hedges & Co., Antique Blue Enamel, Pearl and Diamond Entwined Hearts Brooch, Antique Diamond Dog Head Brooch, Antique Moonstone, Ruby and Diamond Bowed Heart Brooch, Carved Onyx and Diamond Stylized Lamp Brooch, Georgian Old Mine Diamond Tremblant Flower Brooch, Emerald and Diamond Salamander Brooch, and Platinum Diamond Trois Étoiles Clip by Belperron.

 

I like the flower and dog shapes for a small point of focus and the salamander or Belperron clip for a more graphic note. I would keep the rest of an outfit simple when the pin is doing the work.

Four priced bracelets take the category from textured gold links to inlaid wood, wirework, and turquoise. I chose the 18K Yellow Gold Textured Curb Link Bracelet by Georges L'Enfant for OJ Perrin, 18K Yellow Gold Wood Mosaic Link Bracelet by Illario, Antique 14K Yellow Gold Wirework Bangle Bracelet, and Antique Yellow Gold Turquoise and Diamond Bangle Bracelet.

 

I would compare the link styles and bangle shapes to the other jewelry I wear most. I would check the listed measurements before I choose, rather than judging the fit from the photograph.

If I were starting with one piece, I would choose the Georgian Ruby and Diamond Flaming Double Heart Ring, a clear expression of the collection’s historic side. I would look at pendants or earrings for a gift when I do not know the recipient’s ring size.

 

I would keep each jewel separate in storage and ask the salon for care guidance before cleaning a piece with pearls, enamel, or unusual stones. That is the most sensible way I know to keep antique jewelry ready to wear.