A black pleated skirt was part of the most famous collection in postwar fashion, since on February 12, 1947 Christian Dior showed his Corolle and Eight silhouettes at 30 Avenue Montaigne. Vogue singles out the pleated black Corolle skirt as voluminous in a time of fabric limits. Here is how to pick a black pleated skirt that swings the way it should.
Black Pleated Skirt: Dior's Corolle, 1947
Volume in a time of shortages
On February 12, 1947, Christian Dior presented his collection at 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris amid postwar shortages, and its press notes identified the Corolle and Eight silhouettes. Vogue describes Corolle as an ample swinging skirt with a tiny waist and a molded bodice, and singles out Dior's pleated black Corolle skirt as voluminous despite restrictions on fabric. A black pleated skirt carries that spirit of abundance into any ordinary day.
Pleat types
Knife pleats are sharp and move like a fan. Accordion pleats are fine and flutter. Box pleats are structured and cleaner. A heat-set pleat on polyester holds for years, and a pressed pleat on wool needs care. Look at how the pleats hang when you stand, since they should fall without gaping.
Length and balance
A midi black pleated skirt is graceful and works with boots or flats. A mini is playful and a little schoolgirl. Picture her in a long black pleated skirt, a fitted sweater and loafers, hurrying through a station at dusk. Because the skirt has movement, keep the top clean and simple.
Wearing it every season
In summer, wear a pleated skirt with a white tee and sandals. In winter, wear it with a turtleneck and tall boots. Add a leather jacket for an edge. Black pleats look sharp with white, camel, cream and denim. Hang the skirt by the waist so the pleats fall properly, and steam rather than iron.
What I would skip
I would skip skirts with pleats that are stitched flat only at the top and splay out at the hem, and those with a stiff waistband that digs in. A pleated skirt should move when you do.
