Black Blazer: From Yachting Jackets to American Gigolo

Vogue India describes the traditional blazer as a thigh-length, double-breasted jacket in black or navy flannel, with brass buttons that echoed British boating and cricket culture of the late 19th century. The blazer first appeared in Vogue in June 1893, in a report on yachting costumes and the long blazer. In 1975 Giorgio Armani showed his first collection of unstructured men's blazers, and Richard Gere's Armani wardrobe in American Gigolo in 1980 helped give the blazer sex appeal. A black blazer has been rewriting itself ever since.

The shoulder is the part of a black blazer you cannot alter. Choose a seam that sits at the edge of your shoulder, then tailor the sleeves and waist. A structured shoulder looks sharp, and a soft shoulder looks relaxed. A fabric with a little stretch makes it comfortable. Wool crepe, a wool blend or a high-quality twill keeps its shape.

A single-breasted blazer is the everyday choice, and one button makes a long line. A double-breasted blazer looks stronger and a little retro. In our fashion dreams she wears a double-breasted black blazer over a white tee and straight jeans to a gallery opening. An oversized cut looks modern with slim trousers. A fitted cut is neat with a pencil skirt.

Wear a black blazer with jeans, a slip dress, a pleated skirt or tailored trousers. Push the sleeves up for ease. Add a silk scarf or a chain for a polished look. A black blazer is the jacket that makes anything else look more finished.

I would skip a black blazer that is shiny in the wrong way, with a thin lining that shows through the back. A good one is matte, has weight and still looks fine after a long day.