The A line dress got its name from Christian Dior, who called his spring 1955 collection the A line after the H line before it. Vogue called the silhouette the prettiest triangle since Pythagoras, and the shape has been flattering people ever since. Here is how to pick an A line dress that moves the way a good one should.
A Line Dress: The Triangle Dior Named in 1955
A triangle with a pedigree
The A line dress belongs to Christian Dior, who renamed his spring and summer 1955 collection the A line, following the H line of the winter before. It was a looser, more flared shape built for day and for evening, and the jacket and dress ensemble was held up as its ideal. Olivia de Havilland wore a Dior A suit for her wedding that year, and Vogue called the line the prettiest triangle since Pythagoras. An A line dress is geometry that happens to flatter.
Where the skirt starts
The skirt of an A line dress begins at the waist or just above it and widens gently toward the hem. That means it skims the hips instead of clinging, which is the whole charm. Check that the seam sits where your waist actually is, and that the fabric holds its shape instead of collapsing. Cotton poplin and crepe flare cleanly, while very soft jersey drapes and loses the triangle.
Length decides the mood
An A line mini is playful and walks well. A midi is the most versatile length and works with flats, boots or heels. A maxi A line is almost ceremonial. In our fashion dreams she is on a late train in a navy A line midi, a coat over her arm and a library book in her bag. Try a few hems against the shoes you own before you commit.
Pairing it
An A line dress likes a fitted jacket or a cropped cardigan on top, because the volume sits below the waist. Add a belt if the dress is plain. In winter, wear it with opaque tights and boots. In summer, leave the legs bare and let the hem move. Few silhouettes are this forgiving in a bag, a suitcase or a long workday.
What I would skip
I would skip an A line that is cut too stiff, which turns into a tent, and a waist seam that sits too high. A simple test is to sit down and walk up a flight of stairs. If you forget about the dress, it was the right one.
